DAILY NEWS, EGYPT
By Alfred Stepan
First Published: March 21, 2008
The Chief Prosecutor of Turkey’s High Court of Appeals recently recommended to the country’s Constitutional Court that the ruling Justice and Development Party (AKP) be permanently banned. Only last July, the AKP was overwhelmingly re-elected in free and fair elections to lead the government. The Chief Prosecutor also formally recommended that Prime Minister Recep Erdogan, President Abdullah Gul, and 69 other leading politicians be banned from politics for five years.
Clearly, banning the AKP would trigger a political crisis that would end Turkey’s efforts to join the European Union in the foreseeable future and threaten its recent strong economic growth. So the Chief Prosecutor’s threat should not be taken lightly — all the more so given that the Constitutional Court has banned 18 political parties (including the AKP’s predecessor party) since the current constitution was introduced in 1982. Indeed, the recent call to ban the AKP is directly related to its efforts to change Turkey’s constitution.
The underlying charge in the Chief Prosecutor’s indictment is that the AKP has been eroding secularism. But the origins of the current Constitution, and its definition of secularism, are highly suspect.
Turkey’s existing Constitution was adopted in 1982 as a direct product of the Turkish military coup in 1980. The five senior generals who led the coup appointed, directly or indirectly, all 160 members of the Consultative Assembly that drafted the new constitution, and they retained a veto over the final document. In the national ratification referendum that followed, citizens were allowed to vote against the military-sponsored draft, but not to argue against it publicly.
As a result, the 1982 Constitution has weaker democratic origins than any in the EU. Its democratic content was also much weaker, assigning, for example, enormous power (and a military majority) to the National Security Council. While the AKP has moderated this authoritarian feature, it is difficult to democratize such a constitution fully, and official EU reports on Turkey’s prospects for accession repeatedly call for a new constitution, not merely an amended one.
With public opinion polls indicating that the AKP’s draft constitution, prepared by an academic committee, would be accepted through normal democratic procedures, the Chief Prosecutor acted to uphold the type of secularism enshrined in the 1982 Constitution, which many commentators liken to French secularism. Yet the comparison with what the French call laicité is misleading.
Certainly, both French laicité and Turkish secularism (established by modern Turkey’s founder, Kemal Atatürk) began with a similar hostility toward religion. But now they are quite different. In Turkey, the only religious education that is tolerated is under the strict control of the state, whereas in France a wide variety of privately supported religious education is allowed, and since 1959 the state has paid for much of the Catholic Church’s primary school costs. In Turkey, Friday prayers are written by civil servants in the 70,000-member State Directorate of Religious Affairs, and all Turkish imams also must be civil servants. No similar controls exist in France.
Similarly, until the AKP came to power and began to loosen restrictions, it was virtually impossible in Turkey to create a new church or synagogue, or to create a Jewish or Christian foundation. This may be why the Armenian Patriarch urged ethnic Armenians in Turkey to vote for the AKP in last July’s elections. Here, too, no such restrictions exist in France.
The differences between French and Turkish secularism can be put in even sharper comparative perspective. In the widely cited “Fox” index measuring state control of majority and minority religions, in which zero represents the least state control, and figures in the thirties represent the greatest degree of control, all but two current EU member states get scores that are in the zero to six range. France is at the high end of the EU norm, with a score of six. Turkey, however, scores 24, worse even than Tunisia’s authoritarian secular regime.
Is this the type of secularism that needs to be perpetuated by the Chief Prosecutor’s not so-soft constitutional coup?
What really worries some democratic secularists in Turkey and elsewhere is that the AKP’s efforts at constitutional reform might be simply a first step toward introducing Sharia law. If the constitutional court will not stop a potential AKP-led imposition of Sharia, who will?
There are two responses to this question. First, the AKP insists that it opposes creating a Sharia state, and experts say that there is no “smoking gun” in the Chief Prosecutor’s indictment showing that the AKP has moved toward such a goal. Second, support for Sharia, never high in Turkey, has actually declined since the AKP came to power, from 19 percent in 1996 to 8 percent in 2007.
Given that the AKP’s true power base is its support in democratic elections, any attempt to impose Sharia would risk alienating many of its own voters.
Given this constraint, there is no reason for anyone, except for “secular fundamentalists,” to support banning the AKP, Erdogan, or Gul, and every reason for Turkey to continue on its democratic path. Only that course will enable Turkey to construct a better constitution than it has now.
Alfred Stepan is Professor of Government and Director of the Center for Democracy, Toleration and Religion at Columbia University. This commentary is published by DAILY NEWS EGYPT in collaboration with Project Syndicate (http://www.project-syndicate.org/).
Showing posts with label turkey. Show all posts
Showing posts with label turkey. Show all posts
Wednesday, April 2, 2008
Thursday, June 14, 2007
Turkey
I have just returned from Turkey, and, thught it was a good example of a predominantly Islamic nation trying to ensure that its Islamic nature does not overide every other aspect of its existence.
Yes, its important to allow people religious freedom, but how can a simple thing like wearing a headscarf define a religion? It's easy for people to talk about women choosing to wear the headscarf voluntarily, but if you are brought up in an environment where its ingrained in you from childhood that its a woman's duty to cover herself, where is the freedom to make a choice? An indoctrinated choice can hardly be called a choice! Plus I think one needs to review the context, the environment and the exigencies of the times in which Mohamad laid down the rules regarding modesty for women.
What Turkey is doing is creating an open environment for women and trying to ensure that there is equality for women. Are there issues relating to Kurds? Yes, there are, but I don't think Turkey has ever claimed to be Utopia. Do they need to work on it? Yes, they do, but that does not take away from what ever they have achieved.
In any society, radical change is never peaceful, and, perhaps that would also be Turkey's fate. If through its turmoil, its able to emerge as a secular state, it may well become a role model for other Islamic states. Practicising Islam does not neceessarily mean that a state has to lose its secular nature
Yes, its important to allow people religious freedom, but how can a simple thing like wearing a headscarf define a religion? It's easy for people to talk about women choosing to wear the headscarf voluntarily, but if you are brought up in an environment where its ingrained in you from childhood that its a woman's duty to cover herself, where is the freedom to make a choice? An indoctrinated choice can hardly be called a choice! Plus I think one needs to review the context, the environment and the exigencies of the times in which Mohamad laid down the rules regarding modesty for women.
What Turkey is doing is creating an open environment for women and trying to ensure that there is equality for women. Are there issues relating to Kurds? Yes, there are, but I don't think Turkey has ever claimed to be Utopia. Do they need to work on it? Yes, they do, but that does not take away from what ever they have achieved.
In any society, radical change is never peaceful, and, perhaps that would also be Turkey's fate. If through its turmoil, its able to emerge as a secular state, it may well become a role model for other Islamic states. Practicising Islam does not neceessarily mean that a state has to lose its secular nature
Sunday, June 10, 2007
Ortakoy
While on the Bosphorus Cruise, the Guide had pointed out an area called Ortakoy, which is the place that locals frequent. The restaurants, the guide said, served the best fish in town, and, were open till very late at night.
So leaving our son with my mother-in-law, my husband and I set off for dinner at Ortakoy. The cab drops you off on the main road from where you walk down quaint cobbled streets lined with stalls selling everything from junk jewellery to Turkish evil eyes, from fired tiles to beautiful Turkish figurines, from gorgeous ceramics to cat sketches! (What is about cats in this part of the world? Even back home in Egypt people are obsessed with cats!)
Located on the European Bosphorus shore, Ortakoy, {literally "the village in the middle" (orta}) is a really cool place with lots shops, open air cafés (very Parisian), restaurants, and, tons of arty crowd along with youngsters, with an occasional young Turk revving past in his fancy motorbike.
As I discovered later, the stalls lining the streets are an impromptu street market on Sundays by artists displaying their wares for sale. Prices are a little lower than Grand Bazaar and the artists are usually not given in to bargaining. There are two permanent shops that sell the most gorgeous blue / aqua green Turkish pottery that I have seen. The pieces are unique, different from the run of the mill stuff that you’ll find in Grand Bazaar, and expensive, but worth every penny you spend. And, there is this lovely shop selling copies of old photographs / lithos of Istanbul, copies of Ottoman edicts and official decrees, and, hold your breath, copies of the posters advertising the Orient Express! The last I just had to buy!
Hubby and I walked to the end of the area where a natural jetty is home to number of tourists and Turks out with the family. A group of youngsters sat in one corner under a tree singing songs and strumming a guitar. I was really tempted to join, but satisfied myself by listening to them. Bunch of young friends, sipping coffee, singing, laughing at a shared joke – ah, how I yearn for the uncomplicated life when you are young!
The most beautiful part of being at Ortakoy is that you are right at the edge of the Bosphorus. You can hear the waves as they crash against the shore, and, feel the breeze as it caresses your skin.
As we walked back towards the restaurants, I noticed a beautiful mosque on my left. This is Büyük Mecidiye Camii (Grand Imperial Mosque of Sultan Abdülmecid), usually called simply the Ortaköy Camii. Other than its beautiful architecture, what is really tantalizing is that its almost in the water on the Bosphorus shore.
Right next to the mosque was a lady, making something, which resembled Indian roomali rotis. On the table were jars with assorted fillings – mushrooms, penayir (yes, like the Indian paneer), cheese, mashed potatoes, beef, mutton etc. As she expertly tossed and rolled out the rotis, I was intrigued enough to try one. The dish, the lady explained, was called “Queslame” and was a local Turkish roll. Could I get a vegetarian one? Of course! Decided to go the whole hog and pointed to everything vegetarian that I could find – penayir, potatoes, cheese and mushrooms.
She essentially rolled out the dough into a really large roti / pancake and then added all the stuffing. Folded it over to form a square and then cooked it on a pan. Once cooked, rolled it in a paper and handed it to me. Yum! It was delicious, albeit a little dry.
Numerous restaurants line Ortakoy, selling everything from Lebanese to Chinese to Continental cuisine.
Verdict: To sit in the evening breeze, next to the Bosphorus, and, have your dinner makes Ortakoy a not-to-miss experience. I’m defiantly going to be back!
So leaving our son with my mother-in-law, my husband and I set off for dinner at Ortakoy. The cab drops you off on the main road from where you walk down quaint cobbled streets lined with stalls selling everything from junk jewellery to Turkish evil eyes, from fired tiles to beautiful Turkish figurines, from gorgeous ceramics to cat sketches! (What is about cats in this part of the world? Even back home in Egypt people are obsessed with cats!)
Located on the European Bosphorus shore, Ortakoy, {literally "the village in the middle" (orta}) is a really cool place with lots shops, open air cafés (very Parisian), restaurants, and, tons of arty crowd along with youngsters, with an occasional young Turk revving past in his fancy motorbike.
As I discovered later, the stalls lining the streets are an impromptu street market on Sundays by artists displaying their wares for sale. Prices are a little lower than Grand Bazaar and the artists are usually not given in to bargaining. There are two permanent shops that sell the most gorgeous blue / aqua green Turkish pottery that I have seen. The pieces are unique, different from the run of the mill stuff that you’ll find in Grand Bazaar, and expensive, but worth every penny you spend. And, there is this lovely shop selling copies of old photographs / lithos of Istanbul, copies of Ottoman edicts and official decrees, and, hold your breath, copies of the posters advertising the Orient Express! The last I just had to buy!
Hubby and I walked to the end of the area where a natural jetty is home to number of tourists and Turks out with the family. A group of youngsters sat in one corner under a tree singing songs and strumming a guitar. I was really tempted to join, but satisfied myself by listening to them. Bunch of young friends, sipping coffee, singing, laughing at a shared joke – ah, how I yearn for the uncomplicated life when you are young!
The most beautiful part of being at Ortakoy is that you are right at the edge of the Bosphorus. You can hear the waves as they crash against the shore, and, feel the breeze as it caresses your skin.
As we walked back towards the restaurants, I noticed a beautiful mosque on my left. This is Büyük Mecidiye Camii (Grand Imperial Mosque of Sultan Abdülmecid), usually called simply the Ortaköy Camii. Other than its beautiful architecture, what is really tantalizing is that its almost in the water on the Bosphorus shore.
Right next to the mosque was a lady, making something, which resembled Indian roomali rotis. On the table were jars with assorted fillings – mushrooms, penayir (yes, like the Indian paneer), cheese, mashed potatoes, beef, mutton etc. As she expertly tossed and rolled out the rotis, I was intrigued enough to try one. The dish, the lady explained, was called “Queslame” and was a local Turkish roll. Could I get a vegetarian one? Of course! Decided to go the whole hog and pointed to everything vegetarian that I could find – penayir, potatoes, cheese and mushrooms.
She essentially rolled out the dough into a really large roti / pancake and then added all the stuffing. Folded it over to form a square and then cooked it on a pan. Once cooked, rolled it in a paper and handed it to me. Yum! It was delicious, albeit a little dry.
Numerous restaurants line Ortakoy, selling everything from Lebanese to Chinese to Continental cuisine.
Verdict: To sit in the evening breeze, next to the Bosphorus, and, have your dinner makes Ortakoy a not-to-miss experience. I’m defiantly going to be back!
Turkish Hamam
The hotel that we were staying in offered complimentary Turkish Bath for guests. I guess all hotels in Turkey would offer a Turkish bath experience – I’d be surprised, nay, shocked if they did not! Had been telling my husband that we should go and experience a Turkish Bath while we were in Istanbul – it would be sacriliege not to!
Our guide on an earlier tour had explained that Islam’s emphasis on personal cleanliness was responsible for construction of hundreds of hamams all over Turkey, and, especially Istanbul. Men and women have different hamams or different bathing hours in the same hamam. While some public hamams are clean, he recommened that we use our hotel one (if the hotel was a reputed, neat and clean one) to avoid any chance of any infection!
So while everyone slept in the afternoon, I ventured down to the floor that housed the Turkish bath.
I was ushered into the ladies cloakroom to change, and, offered a cloth (pestemal) to wrap around me. I politely declined, indicating that I preferred my one-piece swimwear. How would I get cleaned, asked the hamamn attendant, despairingly shaking her head. I’m quite clean actually, thank you, this was just for the experience! Shaking her head at this strange foreigner, she lead me to the steam room, where I sweated for about 15mins.
After this, she lead me to the main hamam area which is a big room, really, really sweltry with a round marbled podium in the centre. All along the walls, there were quaint brass baisins with taps above (one for hot and the other for cold water) and a brass bowl to scoop the water.
It appeared I had a choice, explained the attendant. I could either soap myself or she would do it for me. Basically, the attendant would rub you all over with a coarse cloth called kese to clean you of all your dirt. Then she would lather you with soap suds, and, then wash you. After this was done, for a fee, you can get a massage, where they make you lie down on the marble podium in the centre. I had seen tons of these photographs when looking up Turkish baths. Now I knew better!
I opted to bathe myself. After being steamed for 15 mins, the cool water felt heavenly against my skin, and, I must admit that I felt really clean.
Verdict: A Turkish bath is a must do, not just for the resultant cleanliness, but jst for the experience!
Our guide on an earlier tour had explained that Islam’s emphasis on personal cleanliness was responsible for construction of hundreds of hamams all over Turkey, and, especially Istanbul. Men and women have different hamams or different bathing hours in the same hamam. While some public hamams are clean, he recommened that we use our hotel one (if the hotel was a reputed, neat and clean one) to avoid any chance of any infection!
So while everyone slept in the afternoon, I ventured down to the floor that housed the Turkish bath.
I was ushered into the ladies cloakroom to change, and, offered a cloth (pestemal) to wrap around me. I politely declined, indicating that I preferred my one-piece swimwear. How would I get cleaned, asked the hamamn attendant, despairingly shaking her head. I’m quite clean actually, thank you, this was just for the experience! Shaking her head at this strange foreigner, she lead me to the steam room, where I sweated for about 15mins.
After this, she lead me to the main hamam area which is a big room, really, really sweltry with a round marbled podium in the centre. All along the walls, there were quaint brass baisins with taps above (one for hot and the other for cold water) and a brass bowl to scoop the water.
It appeared I had a choice, explained the attendant. I could either soap myself or she would do it for me. Basically, the attendant would rub you all over with a coarse cloth called kese to clean you of all your dirt. Then she would lather you with soap suds, and, then wash you. After this was done, for a fee, you can get a massage, where they make you lie down on the marble podium in the centre. I had seen tons of these photographs when looking up Turkish baths. Now I knew better!
I opted to bathe myself. After being steamed for 15 mins, the cool water felt heavenly against my skin, and, I must admit that I felt really clean.
Verdict: A Turkish bath is a must do, not just for the resultant cleanliness, but jst for the experience!
Misir Carsisi
After a trip to Kapili Carsisi decided we must pay a visit to Misr Carsisi, not just to see what the market is like, but because it’s the Egyptian market! Egyptian comes from the association with Spices. In ancient times, spices from Egypt used to be brought and sold here. Hence, Misr Carsisi is also known as the Spice Bazaar.
Decided to take the tram from Sultanahmet to Eminonu. Walked out from the subway, past Yeni Cami towards Misr Carsisi. One of the locals told me that Yeni meant new! New? A hundred of years old mosque! What a delightful paradox!
Walked to a brown and beige stone building which displays a sign in brass proclaiming it to be Misr Carsisi. The one thing that struck me, I was suddenly seeing women wearing headscarves! Was it just co-incidence that I found women in headscarves near an Egyptian market?
Walked through the market – a bit of a disappointment. I guess I was expecting shop after shop displaying mounds of aromatic spices. I had visions of browsing, weighing buying pure, fresh smelling spices. Well, there are shops selling spices, but nothing close to the Carsisi of my imagination.
Was most amused while browsing through some shops selling what they called Indian curry powder and Indian saffron, which by the way, looked like nothing back home!
There are a number of shops selling touristy trinkets as well, and, a shop selling the most beautiful embroidered Turkish towels. Now I’ve grown up hearing about the fabulous Turkish towels, so succumbed to the temptation, and, bought two gorgeous fluffy towels. I’m still admiring them in their pretty packs, haven’t had the heart to open them!!
Verdict: You may want to visit Misr Carsisi to tick the box, but if you don’t, you wont miss too much.
Decided to take the tram from Sultanahmet to Eminonu. Walked out from the subway, past Yeni Cami towards Misr Carsisi. One of the locals told me that Yeni meant new! New? A hundred of years old mosque! What a delightful paradox!
Walked to a brown and beige stone building which displays a sign in brass proclaiming it to be Misr Carsisi. The one thing that struck me, I was suddenly seeing women wearing headscarves! Was it just co-incidence that I found women in headscarves near an Egyptian market?
Walked through the market – a bit of a disappointment. I guess I was expecting shop after shop displaying mounds of aromatic spices. I had visions of browsing, weighing buying pure, fresh smelling spices. Well, there are shops selling spices, but nothing close to the Carsisi of my imagination.
Was most amused while browsing through some shops selling what they called Indian curry powder and Indian saffron, which by the way, looked like nothing back home!
There are a number of shops selling touristy trinkets as well, and, a shop selling the most beautiful embroidered Turkish towels. Now I’ve grown up hearing about the fabulous Turkish towels, so succumbed to the temptation, and, bought two gorgeous fluffy towels. I’m still admiring them in their pretty packs, haven’t had the heart to open them!!
Verdict: You may want to visit Misr Carsisi to tick the box, but if you don’t, you wont miss too much.
Saturday, June 9, 2007
THE HIPPODROME
THE HIPPODROME
THE EGYPTIAN OBELISK (THE OBELISK OF THEODOSIUS I)
Around 1490 BC the Egyptian Pharaoh Thutmose III erected two obelisks before the Karnak temple in Luxor to commemorate the victories of his forces in Mesopotamia. The obelisks were made of rare pink granite.
In the 4th century AD, an unknown Roman emperor who wanted to accomplish something impressive that would create excitement among his people had the colossal obelisk brought to Istanbul.
For years it was left lying in a corner of the Hippodrome. In 390, during the reign of Theodosius I, it was erected with great difficulty by Proclus, a city administrator. It is the oldest monument in the city and has always been considered magical.
The obelisk rests on four bronze blocks on a Roman base decorated with reliefs. These depict the emperor, his children and other prominent personalities watching the races from the imperial box, as well as the spectators, musicians, dancers and chariot races. The obelisk measures 25.60 m including the base.
THE WALLED OBELISK
Built of roughly cut stones, this imitation obelisk stands at the southern side of the Hippodrome. Its exact date of construction is unknown. It is named after the Emperor Constantine Porphyroenitus who had it repaired in the 10th century. Its bronze plates decorated with golden lettering were plundered by the Fourth Crusaders.
THE SERPENT COLUMN
This is one of the oldest monuments in Istanbul. The heads of the three intertwined serpents used to form the legs of a gold cauldron. The thirty-one Greek cities, which defeated the Persians in 5th century, BC melted the bronze items they had captured to create this unique monument. The 8-meter high column originally stood before the Temple of Apollo in Delphi. It was brought to Istanbul in 324 by Constantine and erected in the middle of the Hippodrome. The heads of the serpents, intact until 1700, disappeared at that time. One of the missing heads was later found and it is now on display at the Archeological Museum.
THE GERMAN FOUNTAIN
The octagonal, domed fountain at the entrance to the Hippodrome was a present from the German Emperor Wilhelm II to Sultan Abdulhamid II and the city of Istanbul. It was built in Germany and installed in Istanbul in 1898. Built in a neo-Byzantine style, the fountain is decorated with gold mosaics inside. It is a beautiful fountain, but does not blend well with the ancient monuments in the vicinity.
THE EGYPTIAN OBELISK (THE OBELISK OF THEODOSIUS I)
Around 1490 BC the Egyptian Pharaoh Thutmose III erected two obelisks before the Karnak temple in Luxor to commemorate the victories of his forces in Mesopotamia. The obelisks were made of rare pink granite.
In the 4th century AD, an unknown Roman emperor who wanted to accomplish something impressive that would create excitement among his people had the colossal obelisk brought to Istanbul.
For years it was left lying in a corner of the Hippodrome. In 390, during the reign of Theodosius I, it was erected with great difficulty by Proclus, a city administrator. It is the oldest monument in the city and has always been considered magical.
The obelisk rests on four bronze blocks on a Roman base decorated with reliefs. These depict the emperor, his children and other prominent personalities watching the races from the imperial box, as well as the spectators, musicians, dancers and chariot races. The obelisk measures 25.60 m including the base.
THE WALLED OBELISK
Built of roughly cut stones, this imitation obelisk stands at the southern side of the Hippodrome. Its exact date of construction is unknown. It is named after the Emperor Constantine Porphyroenitus who had it repaired in the 10th century. Its bronze plates decorated with golden lettering were plundered by the Fourth Crusaders.
THE SERPENT COLUMN
This is one of the oldest monuments in Istanbul. The heads of the three intertwined serpents used to form the legs of a gold cauldron. The thirty-one Greek cities, which defeated the Persians in 5th century, BC melted the bronze items they had captured to create this unique monument. The 8-meter high column originally stood before the Temple of Apollo in Delphi. It was brought to Istanbul in 324 by Constantine and erected in the middle of the Hippodrome. The heads of the serpents, intact until 1700, disappeared at that time. One of the missing heads was later found and it is now on display at the Archeological Museum.
THE GERMAN FOUNTAIN
The octagonal, domed fountain at the entrance to the Hippodrome was a present from the German Emperor Wilhelm II to Sultan Abdulhamid II and the city of Istanbul. It was built in Germany and installed in Istanbul in 1898. Built in a neo-Byzantine style, the fountain is decorated with gold mosaics inside. It is a beautiful fountain, but does not blend well with the ancient monuments in the vicinity.
The Blue Mosque
Decided to take a half day tour of Sultanahmet, which included the Hippodrome, the Obelisk, the famous Blue Mosque, and, the equally imposing Haga Sophiya (for reasons that would only be understood by a Bengali, the latter elicited many giggles from my 6 year old!).
The Blue Mosque is one of the most prominent, and, famous, landmarks of Istanbul, and, is very impressive with its beautiful domes, semi domes, courtyards and six minarets. Sultan Ahmet I built the mosque. He ordered Architect Mehmed Aga to build a mosque that would parallel the Haga Sophia - it took around 7 years to build it!
I never realized till I got back that in the construction of the blue Mosque, Mehmet Aga, paid tribute to his colleagues Anthemius of Tralles and Isidorus of Miletus, architects of neighboring Ayasofya (Hagia Sophia), who designed their masterwork a thousand years before Mehmet Aga was born.
The two great buildings, Ayasofya and the Blue Mosque, stand beside one another on the Hippodrome, separated only by a small park. They are both entered from the same direction. In one, the visitor's eye is lifted heavenward inside, in the other, on the outside: master architects conversing across a millennium.
Traditionally, mosques built by Sultans had 4 minarets, and those built by others would have only two, thereby clearly distinguishing mosques built by Sultans / Kings from those built by other noblemen.
As per an anecdote, the 6 minarets of the Blue Mosque were a result of a linguistic misunderstanding! According to it, Sultan Ahmet I wanted to have minarets made of gold which is "altin" in Turkish. The architect misunderstood him as "alti" which means "six" . Luckily for the architect, the Sultant liked the 6 minarets and his head was spared. Prior to that time, no sultan had a mosque with 6 minarets.
As you enter, in the courtyard, there are some fountains which are for people who are going to pray in the mosque. In Islam, prior to praying, one must wash his/her face, arms, neck and feet as well as mouth and nose. This is a basic cleaning, which on the flip side, renders many a public bathroom unusable!
The marble courtyard’s marble comes from the Island of Marmara (the Turkish word for marble ,"Mermer" comes from Marmara).
Upon entering the mosque, one’s head is to be covered, and, the shoes must be taken off and put into plastic bags which one carries in one’s hands. I was amazed to notice that no one forces foreigners to cover their head, though you can buy blue head scarves outside the entrance for 10 TYL. The Turks appear to have great belief in the ability of human beings to pay respect where it is due, and, it’s a belief that’s well placed – you can hear faint murmurs as the guides talk, but no one runs around, screams or makes a nuisance of themselves, unlike in the Valley of the Kings back home.
Upon the entrance to the mosque, one should pay attention to the gate. The gate is a typical Seljuk- Turkish wooden work with a geometrical design in its center. The star symbolizes the Turkish Generation and very typical of early 11-12th C Turkish Art.
As you enter, you look up in awe at the massive interior of the mosque with its chandeliers and blue tiles. The tiles, our guide explained, are all 17th century beautiful Iznik tiles which give the mosque its name.
The mosque is all carpeted with prayer rugs because people touch their forehead on the ground. The carpet is designed as multiple small rectangles adjacent to each other. Each rectangle indicates a place for one individual to pray.Our guide told us that the mosque has 260 windows through which the light sparkles into the mosque. The windows have centuries old stained glass, which diffuses the light as it comes in, and, creates a mellow halo effect.
The pulpit from which the Imam speaks is made of marble. The guide mentioned that every Friday, when the Imam climbs the pulpit for prayers, he never climbs right to the top as a mark of respect to Prophet Mohammed. Everybody turns his or her face to the south when praying, because Mecca( Saudi Arabia) is located in South. At the rear end of the Mosque is a prayer area for women shielded by an intricately worked mashrabeya partition. Some of our co-passengers on the tour, who were Muslims, knelt down to pray.
Friday, June 8, 2007
A trip down history lane!
A city which is 3000 years old, the fascination for Istanbul stems from its place in history, and, of course, the Bosphorus. A city that started its existence as a nondescript fishing village, underwent several changes into Byzantium, then Constantinople, to finally metamorphasize into Istanbul. A city that was witness to the fortunes of three great empires, and straddles two continents, Istanbul came to be known as the “Paris of the East”, and, to reaffirm this, the first great international luxury express train ever run – the Orient Express (of Agatha Christie fame) – connected Istanbul with Paris.
The history of Istanbul is rich and full of interesting tales.
Its rumoured that Byzas, a Megarian colonist (from the Doric colony of Megara in Ancient Greece), before leaving Greece, asked the oracle at Delphi where he should establish his new colony to which the oracle replied “ opposite the blind”. Sailing up the Bosphorus, Byzas noticed the settlement on the Asian shore at Chalcedon. Looking to the left they saw the natural harbour of the Golden Horn on the European shore, they wondered if the people at Chalcedon were blind not to have settled on the European side. So they set up their new city Byzantium “opposite the blind”!
Byzantium submitted to Rome and fought Rome’s battles for many years till it was won by Septimius Severus who razed it to the ground and rebuilt it as Augusta Antonina.
In 324 AD, Constantine won control over this city, declared it to be the “New Rome” or Constantinople. For the next many decades, Constantinople would be the centre of their empire.
Finally, in what is referred to as the “Fall of Constantinople” or the “Conquest of Istanbul” (depending on the perspective – Western or Muslim), Mehmet II, the young Ottoman Sultan, conquered what would become Istanbul. After conquering the Golden Horn, Mehmet’s forces were being frustrated by the large city walls. It is said that a Hungarian cannon manufacturer called Urban offered to build the most enormous cannon ever built to tear down the city walls. It appears that Urban decided to go to Mehmet after discovering that the existing Byzantine emperor had no money to pay him!
Mehmet’s entry into Istanbul on the evening of 29th May is celebrated every year. Those parts of the city that did not resist his troops were spared and their Churches guaranteed. Those that resisted were sacked, and their churches turned into mosques. Sancta Sophia (now known as Hague Sophia), then the biggest and most magnificent Church of the Christian world, was immediately converted to a mosque.
It is said that with the growth of the Ottoman Empire, Istanbul became a melting pot of different cultures. On its streets, people spoke Turkish, Greek, Armenian, Russian Arabic, Romanian, Italian, French, German, English etc. Sounds completely like exotica!
The history of Istanbul is rich and full of interesting tales.
Its rumoured that Byzas, a Megarian colonist (from the Doric colony of Megara in Ancient Greece), before leaving Greece, asked the oracle at Delphi where he should establish his new colony to which the oracle replied “ opposite the blind”. Sailing up the Bosphorus, Byzas noticed the settlement on the Asian shore at Chalcedon. Looking to the left they saw the natural harbour of the Golden Horn on the European shore, they wondered if the people at Chalcedon were blind not to have settled on the European side. So they set up their new city Byzantium “opposite the blind”!
Byzantium submitted to Rome and fought Rome’s battles for many years till it was won by Septimius Severus who razed it to the ground and rebuilt it as Augusta Antonina.
In 324 AD, Constantine won control over this city, declared it to be the “New Rome” or Constantinople. For the next many decades, Constantinople would be the centre of their empire.
Finally, in what is referred to as the “Fall of Constantinople” or the “Conquest of Istanbul” (depending on the perspective – Western or Muslim), Mehmet II, the young Ottoman Sultan, conquered what would become Istanbul. After conquering the Golden Horn, Mehmet’s forces were being frustrated by the large city walls. It is said that a Hungarian cannon manufacturer called Urban offered to build the most enormous cannon ever built to tear down the city walls. It appears that Urban decided to go to Mehmet after discovering that the existing Byzantine emperor had no money to pay him!
Mehmet’s entry into Istanbul on the evening of 29th May is celebrated every year. Those parts of the city that did not resist his troops were spared and their Churches guaranteed. Those that resisted were sacked, and their churches turned into mosques. Sancta Sophia (now known as Hague Sophia), then the biggest and most magnificent Church of the Christian world, was immediately converted to a mosque.
It is said that with the growth of the Ottoman Empire, Istanbul became a melting pot of different cultures. On its streets, people spoke Turkish, Greek, Armenian, Russian Arabic, Romanian, Italian, French, German, English etc. Sounds completely like exotica!
First Impressions
Reached our quaint little hotel in Taksim Square and crashed for the morning. Woke up and went for a walk in Taksim Square. The weather was absolutely fabulous. The cool breeze felt wonderful on my skin. The scores of pigeons on the square reminded me of Trafalgar Square in London as my son hesitantly ran through their ranks. The pigeons hopped a little distance away giving my son a rather baleful look.
Saw a shoe shine guy whose shoe shine box took my breath away – it was a brass plated quaint box with a number of brass topped bottles (will post a photo once I finish downloading the memory chip). If I weren’t wearing keds, faith I would’ve had my shoes shined!
Had lunch in a small café on Istiklal Caddesi which served what seemed the most delicious meal I had eaten in a while – hot lentil shorba, a hummus (chick peas) curry, a heavenly aubergine, garlic and tomato preparation and some rice.
First impressions?
Very different scenery as you drive from the airport to the heart of the city. Its very lush and green compared to the beak but compelling brown of the dessert back home,
Very Mediterranean especially the white washed houses,
The azure Bosphorus and the glorious Marmara
Gorgeous weather with a nippy cool breeze that caresses your skin,
Quaint mix of the modern and Arab but definitely more European,
NO headscarves (despite Turkey being 98% Muslim),
Architecture though Muslim, yet not as Arab as you see in the Gulf and the Middle East,
People have European coloring but slightly Arabic features
Women definitely not as pretty as back home in Cairo,
Secular state but divided on community lines – conflict with the Armenians and the Kurds
Taksim Square bustling with activity, open air concert with live bands, very European
Quaint streets lined with shops selling lots of food
Mouth watering shwarma tempting even a vegetarian like me!
Istanbul, I love the feel and smell of you!!
Saw a shoe shine guy whose shoe shine box took my breath away – it was a brass plated quaint box with a number of brass topped bottles (will post a photo once I finish downloading the memory chip). If I weren’t wearing keds, faith I would’ve had my shoes shined!
Had lunch in a small café on Istiklal Caddesi which served what seemed the most delicious meal I had eaten in a while – hot lentil shorba, a hummus (chick peas) curry, a heavenly aubergine, garlic and tomato preparation and some rice.
First impressions?
Very different scenery as you drive from the airport to the heart of the city. Its very lush and green compared to the beak but compelling brown of the dessert back home,
Very Mediterranean especially the white washed houses,
The azure Bosphorus and the glorious Marmara
Gorgeous weather with a nippy cool breeze that caresses your skin,
Quaint mix of the modern and Arab but definitely more European,
NO headscarves (despite Turkey being 98% Muslim),
Architecture though Muslim, yet not as Arab as you see in the Gulf and the Middle East,
People have European coloring but slightly Arabic features
Women definitely not as pretty as back home in Cairo,
Secular state but divided on community lines – conflict with the Armenians and the Kurds
Taksim Square bustling with activity, open air concert with live bands, very European
Quaint streets lined with shops selling lots of food
Mouth watering shwarma tempting even a vegetarian like me!
Istanbul, I love the feel and smell of you!!
Istanbul - getting my bearings
Istanbul
A city built on seven hills, Istanbul is divided from north to south by the Bosphorus ( a strait that connects the Black Sea and the Marmara) into the European and Asian portions. The European portion is further divided by the Golden Horn (a freshwater estuary / a really short river) into the Old City and Beyoglu.
The Old City is the area that includes Sultanahmet and the Grand Bazaar, basically all the touristy spots.
As I discovered from the Lonely planet guide, Beyoglu is the Turkish name for the two ancient cities of Pera and Galata. Beyoglu includes areas like Taksim square, the five star hotels like the Hilton, Hyatt, The Marmara etc.\, and, as per tourist guides, the heart of Istanbul!
When I asked the hotel reception, I was informed that all the touristy stuff is on the European side. The only tourist attraction / place of note on the Asian side is the Haydarpasa Station which is the railway station for all trains going to Anatolian region. Since we were only going to be in Istanbul decided to give it a miss. I would much rather see the station near Eminonu, which is the station where the famous Orient Express used to arrive!
A city built on seven hills, Istanbul is divided from north to south by the Bosphorus ( a strait that connects the Black Sea and the Marmara) into the European and Asian portions. The European portion is further divided by the Golden Horn (a freshwater estuary / a really short river) into the Old City and Beyoglu.
The Old City is the area that includes Sultanahmet and the Grand Bazaar, basically all the touristy spots.
As I discovered from the Lonely planet guide, Beyoglu is the Turkish name for the two ancient cities of Pera and Galata. Beyoglu includes areas like Taksim square, the five star hotels like the Hilton, Hyatt, The Marmara etc.\, and, as per tourist guides, the heart of Istanbul!
When I asked the hotel reception, I was informed that all the touristy stuff is on the European side. The only tourist attraction / place of note on the Asian side is the Haydarpasa Station which is the railway station for all trains going to Anatolian region. Since we were only going to be in Istanbul decided to give it a miss. I would much rather see the station near Eminonu, which is the station where the famous Orient Express used to arrive!
Istanbul here I come!
Boarded the flight for Istanbul, which turned out to be Turkish Airways instead of Egypt Air (code share), at an unearthly hour, and, a little grumpy at having lost my beauty sleep. To add to my woes, we were boarding the flight from Terminal 2 instead of the new swanky Terminal 1 reserved for Egypt Air.
After a really turbulent flight, which I thought I would never survive, we managed to land in Istanbul. It really didn’t help that the airhostess and I did not understand each other except for a few exchanged smiles. I’m convinced that had I taken the breakfast offered, it would have flown all over the plane, the ride was so eventful. I’m sure many people on the flight ate out the whole next week on the story of this really scared babe on the plane!
The Istanbul airport is new and all silver and glass. More than ever now, I am convinced that there is some international prototype for airports that makes them all look the same – marble, silver / steel columns, and, lots and lots of grey / blue glass…
Stepping out of the airport, the air hits you like a whip. Its bracingly cold, a refreshing change from the stale air inside the aircraft and the airport and gives you an instant bounce in your step. As we drive onto to the main road leading to the heart of the city, you get a panoramic view of the city - Istanbul is huge, spread all around the Bosphorus and Marmara, built at different levels over 7 different hills.
My nerves tingle in anticipation and excitement!
I’m in Istanbul!
The Istanbul of the blue, blue Bosphorus, the Istanbul of the Blue Mosque and the Aya Sophia.
I can't belive that I am actually here!
After a really turbulent flight, which I thought I would never survive, we managed to land in Istanbul. It really didn’t help that the airhostess and I did not understand each other except for a few exchanged smiles. I’m convinced that had I taken the breakfast offered, it would have flown all over the plane, the ride was so eventful. I’m sure many people on the flight ate out the whole next week on the story of this really scared babe on the plane!
The Istanbul airport is new and all silver and glass. More than ever now, I am convinced that there is some international prototype for airports that makes them all look the same – marble, silver / steel columns, and, lots and lots of grey / blue glass…
Stepping out of the airport, the air hits you like a whip. Its bracingly cold, a refreshing change from the stale air inside the aircraft and the airport and gives you an instant bounce in your step. As we drive onto to the main road leading to the heart of the city, you get a panoramic view of the city - Istanbul is huge, spread all around the Bosphorus and Marmara, built at different levels over 7 different hills.
My nerves tingle in anticipation and excitement!
I’m in Istanbul!
The Istanbul of the blue, blue Bosphorus, the Istanbul of the Blue Mosque and the Aya Sophia.
I can't belive that I am actually here!
Monday, June 4, 2007
Turkey here I come!!
Got my passports back from the Turkish embassy.
Halleluiah! We have the visas!!
Everyone is shocked that I actually managed to get the Turkish visa in 3 days - unheard of! A silent thanks to the ubiqutous Mr Shaheen who really helped me... God bless you, my friend.
So we're off to Istanbul this weekend..
Halleluiah! We have the visas!!
Everyone is shocked that I actually managed to get the Turkish visa in 3 days - unheard of! A silent thanks to the ubiqutous Mr Shaheen who really helped me... God bless you, my friend.
So we're off to Istanbul this weekend..
Tuesday, May 29, 2007
Of Turkish delight & frustrating times
In the last 7-10 days, I think I must have lost considerable weight and hair, not to mention my temper. The hours of standing in the hot sun have considereably dimished my natural (non-existent) glow.
Hubby, and, I decided to visit Turkey (they've been tempting me with visit Turkey in my Inbox ever since I googled some Turkey tourism websites) in the summer break before we headed home (there is something very similar about homing pigeons and expats in the Cairo summer - they all head back home!!!).
So I marched into Thomas Cook's Mohandisiene office (the Maadi one is a disaster, don't ever venture there - they appear to take time off by rotation, except that the rotation seems to be every alternate day - maybe some new cost saving measures adopted by Thomas Cook), booked ourselves tickets to Istanbul and a Hotel, and, then handed the passports to the lady for the visa.
That's when she dropped the bombshell - travel agents don't do visas for foreigners, no matter that they are residents (after what I have been through, I am not surprised, even I wo'nt do visas for myself in Cairo!!)
Ok, what's the big deal, I'll do it myself... Little did I know that it was a big deal...
Lesson 1: No travel agency does overseas visas for foreigners. They all know how nightmarish it can be!!
Lesson 2: No expat does overseas visas in Cairo. They go home for summer and get it done there. At least they know how to deal with the blokes back home. (I'm kidding, ok?)
After 5 days of trying to get the elusive Mr Rami (who seem to carry the burden of the consulate on his shoulders and was unable to spare 2 mins to tell a harried soul what was needed to get a visa), I barged into the consulate one afternoon. I think just to get me off their back, they responded to me, even though it was after consulate hours.
After trekking to Downtown at 6.30 a.m. in the morning (yes, you need to submit docs at an unearthly 7 a.m - what is about consulates and early morning obsession), imagine my shock, when they shook their head and returned my papers. Why? They needed a certificate from my son's school certifying that he is a bonafide student registered with them!!
That really stumped me - now how did they know my son could be a terror? Even if he was an adorable terror, asking for a character certificate was a bit too much.
The next day, I went again, only to be told that since we have not been resident in Cairo for 6 months, we cannot get the visa. What bladderash! He didn't figure this out the last time he went through the papers?
Lesson 3: Expect to do multiple trips to get a visa issued. If you manage in one, either the country is not visited often enough, and, they are desperate or the guy is just nice or he likes you.
Finally, one very kind soul, took pity on my hapless state, went through my papers, and promised to get my visa done if I could submit all the docs that he had asked for by tomorrow morning, which I am going to do. Mr Shaheen, you're a good man!!
Inshaaallah, visa bukra, otherwise maalish!
Hubby, and, I decided to visit Turkey (they've been tempting me with visit Turkey in my Inbox ever since I googled some Turkey tourism websites) in the summer break before we headed home (there is something very similar about homing pigeons and expats in the Cairo summer - they all head back home!!!).
So I marched into Thomas Cook's Mohandisiene office (the Maadi one is a disaster, don't ever venture there - they appear to take time off by rotation, except that the rotation seems to be every alternate day - maybe some new cost saving measures adopted by Thomas Cook), booked ourselves tickets to Istanbul and a Hotel, and, then handed the passports to the lady for the visa.
That's when she dropped the bombshell - travel agents don't do visas for foreigners, no matter that they are residents (after what I have been through, I am not surprised, even I wo'nt do visas for myself in Cairo!!)
Ok, what's the big deal, I'll do it myself... Little did I know that it was a big deal...
Lesson 1: No travel agency does overseas visas for foreigners. They all know how nightmarish it can be!!
Lesson 2: No expat does overseas visas in Cairo. They go home for summer and get it done there. At least they know how to deal with the blokes back home. (I'm kidding, ok?)
After 5 days of trying to get the elusive Mr Rami (who seem to carry the burden of the consulate on his shoulders and was unable to spare 2 mins to tell a harried soul what was needed to get a visa), I barged into the consulate one afternoon. I think just to get me off their back, they responded to me, even though it was after consulate hours.
After trekking to Downtown at 6.30 a.m. in the morning (yes, you need to submit docs at an unearthly 7 a.m - what is about consulates and early morning obsession), imagine my shock, when they shook their head and returned my papers. Why? They needed a certificate from my son's school certifying that he is a bonafide student registered with them!!
That really stumped me - now how did they know my son could be a terror? Even if he was an adorable terror, asking for a character certificate was a bit too much.
The next day, I went again, only to be told that since we have not been resident in Cairo for 6 months, we cannot get the visa. What bladderash! He didn't figure this out the last time he went through the papers?
Lesson 3: Expect to do multiple trips to get a visa issued. If you manage in one, either the country is not visited often enough, and, they are desperate or the guy is just nice or he likes you.
Finally, one very kind soul, took pity on my hapless state, went through my papers, and promised to get my visa done if I could submit all the docs that he had asked for by tomorrow morning, which I am going to do. Mr Shaheen, you're a good man!!
Inshaaallah, visa bukra, otherwise maalish!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
