Wherever we travel, hubby and I like to find an Indian restaurant and try the food out. Not just because we like to eat it, but primarily because we like to see how authentic is the Indian cuisine prepared in that country, how popular Indian food is in that country and also because it tells you a little about the tastes of the people of that city and their willingness to experiment and try out a different cuisine...
We asked the Guest Relations at Sheraton about a good, really good quality Indian restaurant. It appears that there were 3 Indian restaurants (all branches of the same) by the name of Taj Mahal (romance & exotica personified, at least in the name!) in Damascus, and the hotel limousine took us to the biggestest and supposedly the best of them all.
Now the restaurant was not huge but had maybe around 10 covers of 4 seats each..I am begining to suspect that like airports, Indian restaurants all over the world have a prototype consisting of dark ornately carved chairs, lots of pichwai paintings on the wall and tons of brass and copperware! Dunno why!
The staff at the restaurant was very pleasant and helpful, a big change from the otherwise quiet Syrians that we had come across...the owner was an influential local Syrian, the proof being a photograph of him with the Syrian President rather prominently displayed in the restaurant!
I believe the owner and his family had taken a holiday in India over 10 years ago and they just loved the local cuisine. So taken up was he with it, that he decided to open an Indian restuarant back home to remind him of his delightful holiday! Since he would need an Indian Chef to cook Indian food, he decided to enjoy Indian hospitality to the hilt, and decided to bring back with him, the chefs of the hotel that he was staying in!
...and so began a rather profitable love affair with Indian cuisine for him...but I must admit I am glad that he did cos it was really nice to have familiar food after having feasted for days at an end on mezze and bread! Being a vegetarian can really be a curse, especially in the Levant!
The food, surprisingly, was good and reasonably authentic. My son actually devoured large quantities of veggies which are normally partaken after a huge battle of wills! lol!
As we ate our food, to our surpise the place started to fill quite quickly, and, clearly many of the customers were regulars. What I really liked was the attitude and service of the two guys handling the place, taking the orders, making conversation, suggesting food and generally sharing a laugh or two with the clientele - made the entire dining experience so much more special....
So if you are dying for a taste of home in Damascus, then you need to head to Taj Mahal restaurant and eat your fill!!
Showing posts with label syria. Show all posts
Showing posts with label syria. Show all posts
Saturday, July 19, 2008
Thursday, July 17, 2008
Maalula - a tryst with history?
As we drove from Krac towards Damascus, we were quite excited about visiting Maalula, correction, I was! After travelling the whole day, I think my husband and son just wanted the comfort of their air conditoned hotel room and a comfy bed!
Nestled in the mountains, about an hour's drive away from Damascus, the first sight of Maalula is really very quaint!
Nestled in the mountains, about an hour's drive away from Damascus, the first sight of Maalula is really very quaint!
Maalula is a very small village with a population barely touching 2000. Also it appears that most inhabitants move to Damascus for their jobs and only come back here in summer.. it was amazing to be in the only place in the world, where people still spoke Armaic - the ancient language of Christ!
It is the home of two ancient Christian monasteries: Mar Sarkis and Mar Taqla. Both Christians and Muslim pilgrims come to Maalula seeking blessings.
Maalula means "the entrance" in Aramaic, very appropriate for the village's location at the entrance to a rocky gorge. Maalula perches on the slopes of the Kalamun Mountains overlooking lots of trees and the road.
I believe, Maalula is also the home to some interesting festivals. There are three major festivals: the St. Cross Festival on September 14; the Festival of Mar Takla on September 22; and the festival of Mar Sarkis on October 7. these are celebatde with great gusto and are very popular.
The Aramaic language was the main language used for communication between the Semitic peoples in the ancient middle east. Around the 8th century BC, the empire of the Aramaic language extended from Egypt to remote and isolated regions in Asia.
It is said that Christ's teachings were spread / written in Aramaic because it was the language spoken and written by him and his disciples. Today, what is called Syrian, is in reality a dialect of Aramaic spoken in Mesopotamia (nowadays known as Urfa in Turkey), which later became the language of the Christians in Syria.
At the same time, pressure was exerted on Syriac by the Arabic invaders especially after the 5th century AD. Syriac succumbed to this pressure in the end. The Arabs won the battle. However some pockets of resistance still exist. Maalula is an example of this. ( To read more on this interesting topic read http://www.lingolex.com/maalula/maalula.htm)..
Restaurant on top of the World!
By the time we had reached the "Krac" our guide was obviously hungry cos he was rather adament that we have lunch prior to seeing the fort...Not something that we wanted to do, cos to walk and climb on a full stomach is not what we Indians are equipped to do! After a nice heavy meal, a snooze is what the local doctor would recommend! lol!
Went to a restaurant called Akkalla which is right next to the Krac on top of the mountain and offers a fabulous view..
Went to a restaurant called Akkalla which is right next to the Krac on top of the mountain and offers a fabulous view..
Lunch was a huge spread consisting of humous, babagunoush, olives, fried zucchini, sauted aubergine with onions and tomatoes, potato salad, green salad, a huge plate of french fries, a large plate of kebabs and a large packet of balady & pita bread!
Till we started tucking in, didn't realise how hungry we were, and, I must admit, it was probably the healthiest meal that I had had in the last 3 days and definately very very tasty! Or was it just the hunger?
At 700 SPs, it was a very pleasant meal with a wonderful view....
St Simeon Church
About 50-60 kms away from Aleppo, is the really well preserved St Simeon's Church, a must see...
This beautiful church was built in honor of St. Simeon the Stylite who lived here atop a column for 37 years. This church became famous and was visited by pilgrims from all around the area.
St. Simeon was born in a village in the Amanus Mountains. I beleive he lived on top of a 18 meter tall column, which was nearly 2 meters in diameter, to get closer to God, for 37 years. People from all around came to visit him and hear him preach twice a day. This column is still there in the form of a 2 meter high boulder in the center of the courtyard.
This beautiful church was built in honor of St. Simeon the Stylite who lived here atop a column for 37 years. This church became famous and was visited by pilgrims from all around the area.St. Simeon was born in a village in the Amanus Mountains. I beleive he lived on top of a 18 meter tall column, which was nearly 2 meters in diameter, to get closer to God, for 37 years. People from all around came to visit him and hear him preach twice a day. This column is still there in the form of a 2 meter high boulder in the center of the courtyard.
St Simeon's death did not stop the visitors who went on to become pilgrims and the Martyrion was built in his honor (although his body was taken by a few Byzantine soldiers to Antioch and later to Constantinople).
The Citadel, Aleppo
Recognized as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1986, the Citadel forms the centre of Aleppo, much like the spider at the centre of his web! It is a fine example of Arab fort architecture, and, over the years, has come to be recognised as a symbol of Aleppo.
As per our guide, many theories about the first builder of the Citadel. Given its location, on a high hill, its advantages as a defensive location are obvious.
One of the first builders of the citadel is reputed to be Seleucius Necator, a Greek king and a general in Alexander the Great's army. Others believe an even earlier construction of the Citadel construction given the discovery of Hittite temple built during the second and first millennia BC. Still others talk about Sayf al-Dawla (944-967), the first Hamdanid ruler of Aleppo, having built the fortress and used the citadel as a military center of power over his region, but the present structure and design of the Aleppo citadel is supposed to be the work of Ghazi - Salauddin's son.
The sole entrance to the Citadel is through an outer tower. There are three gates with carved figures at each. In the court there is a cistern (Byzantine) and a few brick vaults, probably dungeons. The pitch dark of the inside of the gateway is to strengthen the contrast between light and dark so that it would be impossible for attackers to see.
The Citadel has its own huge amphitheatre.
Over the years, the citadel evolved into a city that included functions ranging from residential (palaces and baths), religious (mosque and shrines), military installations (arsenal, training ground defense towers and the entrance block) and supporting elements (water cisterns and granaries).
As per our guide, many theories about the first builder of the Citadel. Given its location, on a high hill, its advantages as a defensive location are obvious.One of the first builders of the citadel is reputed to be Seleucius Necator, a Greek king and a general in Alexander the Great's army. Others believe an even earlier construction of the Citadel construction given the discovery of Hittite temple built during the second and first millennia BC. Still others talk about Sayf al-Dawla (944-967), the first Hamdanid ruler of Aleppo, having built the fortress and used the citadel as a military center of power over his region, but the present structure and design of the Aleppo citadel is supposed to be the work of Ghazi - Salauddin's son.
The sole entrance to the Citadel is through an outer tower. There are three gates with carved figures at each. In the court there is a cistern (Byzantine) and a few brick vaults, probably dungeons. The pitch dark of the inside of the gateway is to strengthen the contrast between light and dark so that it would be impossible for attackers to see.
The Citadel has its own huge amphitheatre.
Over the years, the citadel evolved into a city that included functions ranging from residential (palaces and baths), religious (mosque and shrines), military installations (arsenal, training ground defense towers and the entrance block) and supporting elements (water cisterns and granaries).
Just opposite the entrance of the Citadel are a number of street side cafes which only accept local currency. There is no money changer around, so be sure to carry some local currency in case you want to sit down, order a coffee or a tamarhind juice and enjoy the view of the Citadel.
A little furthur down is a massive construction being undertaken. Our guide very helpfully told us that this was a new 5 star construction which was due to be completed next year. Then you can stay right at the foot of the Citadel and watch it from you window every night. Till then, unfortunately, you'll have to live with the less exciting view of the city!
Getting used to Syrian currency
The currency of Syria is the Syrian Pound (SP) and its about 48 SPs to a USD...as a result everything is priced in the hundreds, like the old Italian Lira and it takes some getting used to!
As we set off from Aleppo and stopped at a convinience store to buy some watera nd a few snacks. I must warn you, its better to stop and buy your supplies at a regular supermarket, cos the convinience store will overcharge.
2 pineapple juices, 3 small boxes of Pringles and 1 ice tea cost us 800 SPs. Compare this with a lavish meal at the Sheraton Aleppo, which with 3 starters, 3 drinks, and, 3 main courses cost us 2000 SPs.
As we set off from Aleppo and stopped at a convinience store to buy some watera nd a few snacks. I must warn you, its better to stop and buy your supplies at a regular supermarket, cos the convinience store will overcharge.
2 pineapple juices, 3 small boxes of Pringles and 1 ice tea cost us 800 SPs. Compare this with a lavish meal at the Sheraton Aleppo, which with 3 starters, 3 drinks, and, 3 main courses cost us 2000 SPs.
Wednesday, July 16, 2008
Aleppo
"Cradled in a bowl of dry hills in northern Syria, the city of Aleppo presents an austere facade to those entering her ancient gates. Serious, tightlipped, sober - the adjectives often applied to her people convey a dignity befitting Aleppo's age, for she vies with Damascus and Sana'a as the oldest existing city in the world. Though eclipsed by the political and economic hegemony of modern Damascus, Aleppo preserves more purely the essence of a traditional Arab city."
Since I was keen to see the Citadel at Aleppo, we decided to fly from Cairo to Aleppo instead of Damascus, and then drive south to Damascus. It a short 2 hour flight, and the city appeared to be of a reasonabe size, at least aerially.
As we drove from the airport to the hotel, there was something that kept bothering me, but I could not put my finger on it, till my young son quipped "mom, why are all the women wearing the niqaab?" He had got it, spot on! I could not see a single woman on the streets who was not wearing a niqaab or was not dressed in a full black robe wearing a hijaab. If this had been Saudi, I would not have been surprised, but no one had warned me about Syria being orthodox as well!
Drove into the Sheraton which is the only 5 star property in Aleppo and I must admit it was a very nice property. the staff was friendly, helpful and spoke English. Built around a central courtyard,
it has a couple of lovely restaurants including a poolside barbeque where we thought we would do dinner.
Since I was keen to see the Citadel at Aleppo, we decided to fly from Cairo to Aleppo instead of Damascus, and then drive south to Damascus. It a short 2 hour flight, and the city appeared to be of a reasonabe size, at least aerially.
As we drove from the airport to the hotel, there was something that kept bothering me, but I could not put my finger on it, till my young son quipped "mom, why are all the women wearing the niqaab?" He had got it, spot on! I could not see a single woman on the streets who was not wearing a niqaab or was not dressed in a full black robe wearing a hijaab. If this had been Saudi, I would not have been surprised, but no one had warned me about Syria being orthodox as well!
Drove into the Sheraton which is the only 5 star property in Aleppo and I must admit it was a very nice property. the staff was friendly, helpful and spoke English. Built around a central courtyard,
it has a couple of lovely restaurants including a poolside barbeque where we thought we would do dinner.
Tuesday, July 8, 2008
Syrian visa
My husband appears to be in a very magnanimus mood, and offerred to take the family for yet another holiday to Syria! Now, one should never look a gift horse in the mouth so immediately said yes!!!
Trooped off to the embassy to get a really very pleasant surprise...
The person behind the counter was knowledgeable, spoke English (thank goodness!), gave me the list of the exact documents that were required, and, hold your breath, told me that the visa would be done in 2 days! A huge change from Europe / US where it takes days to just get an appointment to submit the papers!!
So for an Indian pasport holder, these are the documents required:
a/ Person must be a resident of Egypt
b/ A letter from your employer stating that you are an employee/ date of employment/ the name of your spouse and children, if any, who will be accompanying you
c/ Letter from Indian embassy (you need to apply to the embassy and this takes a day)
d/ 2 photographs
e/ Visa fees of 140 le per person
f/ Application form that needs to be completed in person at the embassy
g/ confirmation of return tickets
Now compared to your/ your family tree's history that other countries seem to require, this is pretty easy. So having organised everything today, shall jaunt off to the embassy tom! Inshaallah, the visa shall be mine!!
Trooped off to the embassy to get a really very pleasant surprise...
The person behind the counter was knowledgeable, spoke English (thank goodness!), gave me the list of the exact documents that were required, and, hold your breath, told me that the visa would be done in 2 days! A huge change from Europe / US where it takes days to just get an appointment to submit the papers!!
So for an Indian pasport holder, these are the documents required:
a/ Person must be a resident of Egypt
b/ A letter from your employer stating that you are an employee/ date of employment/ the name of your spouse and children, if any, who will be accompanying you
c/ Letter from Indian embassy (you need to apply to the embassy and this takes a day)
d/ 2 photographs
e/ Visa fees of 140 le per person
f/ Application form that needs to be completed in person at the embassy
g/ confirmation of return tickets
Now compared to your/ your family tree's history that other countries seem to require, this is pretty easy. So having organised everything today, shall jaunt off to the embassy tom! Inshaallah, the visa shall be mine!!
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